Evolve or Die

Sophie is unwell – a stomach bug.  We have been very fortunate to have dodged that bullet until now.  We are not extremely careful about what we eat. I feel compelled to stay in while she convalesces so, unfortunately, that means more blogs.  Sorry.

The images are of urban decay.  Taken in Valparaiso, not Santiago. You can't help but feel the pain when you examine the content. We realized we were in 'the wrong part of Valparaiso' just after I took the last one.  You don't venture into those hills with a camera and a wallet we were warned...  Still, my angels looked after us and there were no incidents.

Vomito is prolific in Valpo

I've taken some jaunts out into Santiago and formed some impressions. Aside from the lumps of poverty that we find there is much to admire about both Buenos Aires and Santiago in terms of intentional design.  Latin cities tend to have a central square – sometimes called a Plaza des Armes, sometimes a Zocalo. These verdant gathering spots form the nucleus of exterior social engagement in many towns and cities.  Of course a city like Santiago has many different squares and parks.  It is mind-bogglingly (?) immense and not without its design flaws.  For instance, different neighbouring jurisdictions within the greater city of Santiago fail to harmonize with respect to road construction and design so major arteries suddenly disappear or shift radically.  Who needs earthquakes when you can’t agree with your neighbour where your roads should meet? The locals have accommodated themselves to these vagaries but it is stressful to the visitor.

The subways in Santiago are as different from those in Buenos Aires as New York’s are from Paris (in the reverse order).  They are modern, well-lit with wide platforms for crowds.  The cars are well-lit, clean -and air-conditioned. The Buenos Subte felt medieval. Though there was some nice ceramic work in several of the stations it was filthy, dark, usually hot and the cars were always crowded – any time of day. Santiago’s appears to be an efficient and well-designed system.  Other public transit is also important here and if it weren’t for the fact that it takes a degree in logistics to work out which bus to take we would probably use them as well.

Another thing we observe even in rather small towns in Chile is the pedestrian mall.  The one in downtown Santiago is immense, covering many city blocks.  Cars are not allowed except thru a few lateral streets.  The wide walkways – formerly known as streets – are tiled and have planters with immense trees and shrubs.  It’s very appealing and makes this part of the city extremely hospitable.  The malls appear to benefit both pedestrian and merchant because it all feels very vibrant and healthy.  When I consider cities I am familiar with in Canada I can’t really lay the same template over a sector and imagine it working.  Yorkville?  Well that’s too elitist - too monocultural with respect to income bracket and commerce – where would the fishmongers go, the shoe repair, the fruit and vegetable stalls? Kensington Market?  How would they carry on all the stocking of produce etc. with no ready access for service vehicles.  I suppose it remains to us to take the plunge and see what happens.  Air pollution seems much less in these malls and there is a pervasive sense of community; however illusory that might be.  Oakville could probably pull it off but they would have to open space for the x-mongers. I don’t see Oakvillians tolerating smelly fish and rotting vegetables.  But the prejudices against those things – decay, a bit of olafactory offense – deny us the huge benefits of communing with our neighbours, making new connections and enjoying a richer, more complex way of living – and artisanal fare.

In my imagined future, where Buckminster Fuller-esque domes of one-molecule-thick carbon material hover over tracts of our cold cities, we could have public market spaces and even zocalos with climates adjusted to accommodate sub-tropical verdure and we could walk and conduct our commerce without losing an appendage to the bitter cold.  While I’m at it let’s add some elevated public transport systems that magically don’t offend the airspace of residents below and make no noise.  Throw in some elevated bike corridors that easily convert from open-air to covered. Toronto is filling up and in.  With greater density we must ensure that there is a safety valve that provides for communal experience and ease of use.  Otherwise we will rot at the core like some of the places we are traveling through. Canadian cities are precious.  Winnipeg has its challenges but it was a fantastic place to grow up in and it still has a very workable scale.  Could we harness mosquitoes to pull the buses around?  Montreal could be one of the world’s jewels because of its quasi-European qualities and excellent hairdressers and, unlike Toronto, it has a hill.  Vancouver has natural beauty up the wazoo – where does it make an adjustment to make it affordable? Sorry Moncton.  You’re screwed.

If I can not reform it is not my revolution

We are looking at extreme change in our near future.  Finance systems will be overhauled, globalism will have both positive and negative effects on our economies. Immigration will infuse our cities with a rich admixture of cultural diversity and potential friction. When will our youth become adequately and proportionally employed to match their magnificent skillsets and education?  Unemployment is, here, clearly the most significant problem in large urban centres. How will change take place – what will change to reboot our nearly lifeless economy?  (I am saying this because I am witnessing so much more passion and industry in these developing countries.  I recognize that many of you are hard-working, creative folk so no offense meant). Traveling through less advantaged parts of the world one can’t help but notice the hunger and energy that the citizens here exhibit. (also the hopelessness and sloth of the unemployed). We are slack and less fit philosophically regarding work in Canada I think – having enjoyed plucking the low-hanging fruit that we have come to believe is our natural advantage.  But the world is huge and teeming with tough, hungry fish. We don’t compete with our neighbours or with the United States any more – the world is opening up and we need to be prepared by being excellent and highly creative in our craft and purpose.

So the city planners for these cities had a better idea - with generous public spaces for commerce and interaction.  Can Canadian cities retrofit to accommodate this ideal?  Let’s see.  All Problems are Design Problems. Again and again I see that what we tend to regard as injurious to our economy or social well-being (environmental rehabilitation, social support, alternative energy, sustainable agriculture, decriminalization of most drugs) turns out to have a positive impact across sectors (not just economic).  Why do we keep running from the challenge we have ahead? Why aren’t we plunging into the future with ideas and innovations and knives, forks and spoons to solve the existing and anticipated problems and thereby steal the march on other countries who we are competing with who are facing the same issues? Easy for me to say, I’m not putting the capital in....But I believe that opportunity lies explicitly where the problems are.

Very piratical wall - maybe meant as a warning