We were discussing the political situation in Thailand today with a woman who owns a beautiful little shop in Chiang Mai.
When I first stepped into the store she had her back to me. I made a little sound to alert her to my presence and she spun around, a bit surprised. She looked me up and down quickly and said ‘Richard?’ I thought perhaps she was expecting some fellow named Richard – I’ve been mistaken on a couple of occasions with my friend Richard Peachey but I didn’t think this was likely in Chiang Mai. I replied that I wasn’t Richard. ‘No.’ She said, pointing to the red bandana that I sometimes wrap around the band on my cheap Viet hat, ‘Red shirt’. She was teasing me, suggesting I was one of the protesters that are demonstrating in the streets of Bangkok. The redshirts support an exiled corrupt leader and the yellow shirts support the current administration.
This started a conversation about politics, the economy, ethics and Thai people – as well as a few reflections on how that compared with Canadian experience. Though there is a sensitivity to speaking about politics and such she was very thoughtful and candid. She sold new and antique materials that were particular to her part of the country – the north-east. The store was arranged in a tastefully cluttered fashion with small surprises to be found everywhere. We enjoyed poking around, having conversations about this piece or that, listening to her describe its provenance or significance or her attachment to it.
Sophie has pointed out to me that there is a different type of Buddhism being practiced in Thailand as opposed to Vietnam. One feels that there is something different but it is not entirely clear from the casual observer. Each country has a different architectural aesthetic so one might assume that that explains the difference in their temples or their choice of decoration. I ain’t no specialist and I am not going to get into it here. If you want more information ask Soph or pick up a book.
But there is a different energy here in Vietnam and it might be attributable to the people’s religious beliefs and customs though it certainly won’t be that simple. Vietnam and Laos have experienced the shock of a devastating war or wars, Thailand has not.
In Vietnam the citizens would offer propitiations to Buddhas, Boddhisatvas and ancestors for good luck (to the casual westerner observer there seems to be a lot of idol worship in SE Asia). There are enormous temples with relics and monumental statues to Buddha and other figures as well as urns or containers for the remains of ancestors. Incense is burned everywhere and fake money is put to the torch everywhere as well. At first I thought women were selling lottery tickets but they are selling sort of replica money that one buys to throw on the flames in some gigantic censer or cauldron. The effort, I understand, is to buy favour from the gods or powers that be. In other words – and I am simplifying – money is the ticket – make it, spend it and use it to fashion a smoother path in this world and the next.
In Thailand – once again I offer a disclaimer of my ignorance that I speak the truth with any degree of accuracy, these are assumptions and gleanings from my being here – there seems to be a strong historical underpinning of animist religion that has fused itself with Buddhist practice. Everywhere, as in Vietnam and Laos, there are small structures or replica houses where each home owner or business owner places a mango and a vial of some sweet wine or drink, perhaps a circlet of fragrant flowers, candy or some other perishable for the spirits that dwell within or thereabouts. Up on the mountain in Doi Enthanont, south of Chiang Mai I watched as a mature soldier in full uniform, stepped up to one of these structures, placed some delicacies on the shelf, stood back and prayed quietly and with great focus. I am sure this is a universal experience in Thailand but to my eyes, the military garb and the silent, spiritual commune seemed incongruous but lovely. The Thais often greet or say goodbye with hands held in a prayer gesture - compared to our lives there is much more presence of attention to the spiritual or divine. Useful.
At the temples there is much less torching of money, I get the sense that a difference between the two forms of Buddhism may have to do with relating good action with karma as opposed to buying favours from the Gods (Catholics and divine intercession.) In our experience the Thais seem a little less interested in stripping you of cash. Perhaps it relates to their more evident immersion in spiritual practice. In animist belief that the world replete with invisible energies and spirits. One ignores them at one’s peril. There is spirit in all things; for instance, the relationship of certain geographical features will generate the construction of a Wat or temple. (this is also true in Vietnam). There is also a strong influence of Hinduism in Thailand – the magnificent Royal Palace in Bangkok has a staggeringly long mural that depicts many of the stories in the Ramayana epic. (check my spelling) Which makes the whole understanding of their religion difficult – I thought Buddhism was mostly like the precepts of the writings of Buddha that I have read. Attention the material and worship of objects seems opposite that that kind of thought. Anyone who would care to enlighten me on this subject is more than welcome.
When walking through an exhibit of the history of Chiang Mai I was struck by how much attention the founders paid to site selection. Did anyone scout around near Washington D.C. looking for a particular relationship of hills, rocks, water and indications from the Gods or did they just build a jail next to a bar and then later a courthouse to deal with the mess? In Chiang Mai the Ping river curves around nicely, affording practical defense. The Doi Suthep mountain rises precipitously in the west – a good sign apparently. They built their largest and most important Wat at the navel of the square city they designed. One negative feature was the relationship of the northeast gate to the environment – so they dug a mighty hole and redirected a stream to form a like which solved the evil spirits problem. Very Feng-Shui neh? And it seems to have worked. Chiang Mai has led a sort of charmed existence from all accounts. I think I heard that their river changed direction at some point. I need to find out more about that.
The streets of Chiang Mai seems quite safe, we have wandered nearly deserted streets late at night and there is no creepy sense of danger. Perhaps a tranny hooker at a corner shoots a quizzical look but nothing more – he still huskily offers directions to our street, wobbling just a bit on those stilettos. So is there a greater harmony of Tao energy here? The only really negative aspect is the presence of western males prowling about the busier streets and seamy bars. But it’s time to go. Off to Bangkok by air.
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